DorisampSu Folge 3 Hosenreißverschluss

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Doris Su Folge 3 - Hosenreißverschluss • Der verdeckte Reißverschluss gilt als schwierig, wenn man sich aber an unsere Schritt für Schritt Anweisung hält, kann man mit etwas Übung in 10 Minuten einen Reißverschluss einnähen. • Zunächst schneidet man an der linken Vorderhose ( links, wenn man die Hose trägt! ) 2cm an der vorderen Mitte zurück. Die rechte Vorderhose ( auch Obertritt genannt) bleibt unverändert. • Beide Kanten werden einzeln versäubert . Danach wird die Schrittnaht genäht bis zur Reißverschlussmarkierung . • Ein besonders wichtiger Schritt ist es, am linken Hosenteil von der vorderen Mitte 0,75 cm vorzuschieben und diese neue Kante anzubügeln wie es im Video zu sehen ist. • TIPP: wenn man den Plastikreißverschluss ca. 5cm länger kauft • hat das den Vorteil, dass man während des Nähvorgangs den Schieber oben lassen kann und so nicht beim Nähen gestört wird. • Jetzt kann der Reißverschluss mit den Zäckchen genau gegen diese Kante gesteckt und dann knapp genäht werden, dabei legt man den RV unten passend an und lässt ihn oben mitsamt dem Schieber überstehen. Achtung !! Wenn man zu nahe an die Zähnchen des Reißverschlusses kommt , lässt er sich nicht oder nur schwer öffnen. • Jetzt kann die Vordere Mitte mit zwei Nadeln zugesteckt werden, dann dreht man die Hose nach links und näht nur auf dem Beleg • die zweite Seite des Reißverschlusses (=RV) an; irgendwo in der Mitte des RV Bändchens. Jetzt ist der RV zwar eingesetzt , aber noch nicht ganz richtig, da er aufziehen würde. Also muss man wieder auf rechts drehen und mithilfe einer Papierschablone ( zum Herunterladen ) oder einer gezeichneten Kreidelinie von außen durchsteppen. • Damit man sich beim Schließen des RV nicht versehentlich die Haut einklemmt , wird jetzt von innen ein Schlitzbeleg ( Untertritt) untergesteppt. Für den Schlitzbeleg gibt es eine Schablone ( ebenfalls zum Herunterladen). Bei vielen Schnittmustern ist dieses Schnittteil vorhanden. Der Schlitzbeleg wird unten rund oder auch gerade verstürzt ( = genäht und danach gewendet ) , dann nach rechts gedreht und die offene Kante wird versäubert. ( mit Zickzack oder mit der Overlock ). Der fertige Schlitzbeleg kann jetzt unter den linken RV untergesteckt und an die Nahtzugabe • des Untertritts (zurückgeschnittenes linkes Hosenteil) genäht werden. Dies geht nicht bis ganz zum Schlitzende. Man näht soweit es geht und setzt zusätzlich einen Riegel (= vernähen ca.0,5 cm) damit der Untertritt nicht immer beim Tragen umklappt. • Geschafft!! • Auf keinen Fall sollte man den Reißverschluss abschneiden bevor man das Bündchen angenäht hat. Denn nur dann ist der Schieber gesichert!!! • Die Schritt für Schritt Anleitung kann man herunterladen ...Mit dem Reißverschluss hat man schon die schwierigste Verarbeitung an einer Hose geschafft, weiter geht´s mit den 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