BULLETPROOF Mercruiser ALPHA Outboards not bravo lower shift cable test amp adjustment

>> YOUR LINK HERE: ___ http://youtube.com/watch?v=TmNV9nf90JQ

Shop online marine parts here on amazon: https://amzn.to/46jXJWQ • Full marine store link here (use the search feature top right) - https://amzn.to/46jXJWQ • Notice: (Part 2 coming with detailed instructions on what to look for and how to adjust if not working but the info is below..) • This will work on omc cobra drives and 99% of outboards too - basically the same principle applies on any gear type drive unit.. • (cone clutch examples that this will NOT work on are volvo penta drives 270/280/sx/dp and mercruiser BRAVO - they use friction cones to shift NOT gears). • *** DO NOT TRY THIS ON BRAVO DRIVES ** - bravo drives require the motor to be running to shift and the newer cables are preset/locked ie NO ADJUSTMENT possible. Doing it without motor running risks bending the shift arm. • *** If your engine stalls when you put it in gear (in water only) 99% of the time the lower shift cable is old and needs replacing- instead of sliding smoothly it sticks in the sleeve which over extends the engine cut out required when shifting (usually a microsecond and unnoticeable) - and thus kills the motor. There is no quick cure for a seized/stiff lower shift cable! Drive HAS to come off. • Shift adjustment is ONLY done via the lower cable barrel AT THE ENGINE. It will have a split pin holding it in - tuning the barrel allows you to move the shift window, too much FWD = too little rev and vice versa- so u go back and forth (like in the video) until FWD/REV engages properly. • ====== Moving the brass nut TOWARD the end of the cable (black plastic sleeve) will make REVERSE engage sooner. • ====== Moving it the other way will make FORWARD engage sooner - • You have to keep trying and testing till you get it right. Proper engagement in FWD is of utter importance - more so than REV. Sometimes its REAL close, if so ALWAYS favor FWD engagement (few turns away form cable end). • Try 2-4 turns at a time to really fine tune it.. • This video is for for correctly assembled/working drives - This does NOT show you how to assemble the drive - its simply a demo video on how to check your shift cable is setup right. This just tells you whether the front control is indeed engaging the gears correctly - and helps avoid destroying your gear set / drive / day on the lake/sea! • • Get it where it locks in both FWD an REV and has NO clacking in N. You MUST shift using the control up front to test. This will take up all the slack in your steering and give you REAL WORLD results - not the text book version with all new parts. • Quick fix if your cable adjustment is way out- • Remove LOWER cable with brass barrel from bracket on motor (it goes down into the bilge).. • Slowly have someone rotate prop CCW while slowly pushing IN on the cable by hand. As soon as the clacking starts, mark where the outer sleeve sits on the inner with a sharpie. Now have them spin it CW and slowly pull the cable OUT - again soon as the clacking starts mark where the outer sits on the inner. Now make a 3rd mark between these 2 marks - this is N. Set control to N position, now adjust the barrel to make it fit in the bracket on the motor. • Now TEST it 10-15 times - ive seen cables that shift 7 out of 8 times - which is BAD. It needs to positively shift EVERY time into FWD and Rev (fwd is most important), and not a single clack when shifted back into N. • • TIP: • Have someone move control slowly from N to FWD, while you sit at the back and rotate prop CCW. It will clack-clack and then it should lock fully before the control hits the FWD position. • Adjust brass barrel at motor to change setting. It should NEVER clack-clack when in FWD / N / REV EVER - not even one or two, when the motor runs it will tear the tips of the gears off! • • 0:00 - Intro • 1:58 - Recap FWD gear • 2:12 - Lower cable adjustment

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