Printing ABS with an open frame 3D printer

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People are often asking in comments how I print ABS on open frame 3D printers. For many prints, producing them in ABS is just a matter of upping the bed and nozzle temps and turning off the cooling fan. Other models, however, are destined to failure. • In this guide, I explore ABS printing successes and failures, and explain why ABS can be so difficult to print using some custom animations. • Summary: • -ABS needs 240+ for nozzle and 100 for bed. • -Fan to be turned off except for bridging, etc. • -Shrinkage occurs on thick/solid objects due to the uneven cooling causing the cooler areas to contract. • -This results in a lifted base and/or splitting between layers. • -The best way to overcome this is to raise ambient temps with an enclosure. • -Otherwise you are limited to printing models with thin or narrow sections. • -ABS is mainly useful for prints that need to withstand higher temperatures. • -ABS can be acetone smoothed! • -ABS releases potentially harmful particles into the air where PLA does not. • -PETG is a good substitute for ABS. • Buy quality and affordable filament from X3D. Buy 3, get 1 free and a free sample pack with every order: www.x3d.com.au • Gearbest affiliate link (help support the channel): https://www.gearbest.com/?lkid=13807527 • Take a look around and if you like what you see, please subscribe. • Support me on Patreon: / teachingtech • #3dprinting #abs #explained

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