Wayne Dalton TorqueMaster Garage Door Spring Replacement

>> YOUR LINK HERE: ___ http://youtube.com/watch?v=aiIvBVsiczY

If you’re noticing that it takes extra pressure on your brake pedal to slow down, you might be dealing with a failing booster. • View the full job and shop supplies here: https://www.oreillyauto.com/diy-leaki... • Supplies Needed for This Job: • 1. Safety Glasses: https://orly.cc/4e7cFKz • 2. Gloves: https://orly.cc/3YKu3QZ • 3. Chocks: https://orly.cc/4f7bdZX • 4. Wrenches: https://orly.cc/40PqbOp • 5. Socket Set: https://orly.cc/3Odkxji • 6. Brake Booster: https://orly.cc/3QaCIH4 • 7. Brake Fluid: https://orly.cc/4hsGAPZ • 8. Siphon Tool: https://orly.cc/4hPpMCv • 9. Drain Pan: https://orly.cc/3OJj8Bd • 10. Shop Towels: https://orly.cc/4fFCSS4 • 11. Brake Cleaner: https://orly.cc/3UtR1sQ • 0:00 Welcome Back • 0:30 Tips • 0:46 Prep Your Vehicle • 1:08 Disconnect Brake Lines • 1:51 Remove the Master Cylinder • 2:10 Disconnect HCU Line • 2:38 Gain Brake Booster Access • 2:46 Remove the Brake Booster • 3:13 Install the New Booster • 3:30 Lubricate and Adjust the Brake Booster Pin • 3:40 Reinstall the Master Cylinder • 3:51 Reattach Hoses Lines • 2:58 Bleed Your Brakes • Facebook: / oreillyautoparts • Instagram: / oreillyautoparts • Twitter: / oreillyauto • Find your local O’Reilly Auto Parts: https://www.oreillyauto.com/locations • Discover Aztec 200 desert racing: https://bit.ly/4b3qMiu • Shop all your automotive needs: https://www.oreillyauto.com/ • Subscribe and ring the notification bell! http://bit.ly/2bTyluF • On our channel we cover several different topics: • Automotive Product Overviews • Do It Yourself Automotive Repair • DIY Auto Maintenance • Simple Automotive Diagnostics • Automotive and Vehicle Education Videos • O’Reilly Auto Parts is an auto parts retailer that provides automotive aftermarket parts, tools, supplies, equipment, and accessories in the United States serving both the professional service providers and do-it-yourself customers. From our roots as a single store in 1957 to our current size of 5,219 locations (and growing), we've come a long way. We pride ourselves on offering well researched, and reliable automotive information on our channel. • #OReillyPowered #CarRepair • #CarMaintenance #TeamOReilly • Transcript: • Chock your wheels and set the parking brake. • Pop the hood and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Set it aside someplace where it isn’t touching metal. • You’ll need to relieve the vacuum pressure that exists in the system so you can disconnect the vacuum line and separate the master cylinder from the booster. • To do this, pump your brake pedal a few times with the engine off. • Once the pedal firms up, you’re good to go. • Locate your power brake booster, which should be right against the back wall of your engine compartment on the driver’s side. • Before removing the booster, you’ll have to remove the master cylinder, which is directly in front of it. • In some vehicles, you can just move the master cylinder to the side. • If you are able to move the master cylinder to the side, there’s no need to unhook the brake hydraulic lines. • And if you don’t need to remove the hydraulic brake lines, the job won’t take as long because you won’t have to bleed the brake system. • If you do need to remove the brake lines, leave the master cylinder cap on and remove the master cylinder from the booster. • There’s no need to remove the fluid. • Hold your fingers over the holes as you remove it from the vehicle to make sure no brake fluid drips on anything. • Next, remove the electrical cable leading to the brake fluid reservoir. This can be done by hand. • Remove the clip that secures the connector and push the tab to release it. • Use the proper brake line flare wrench to disconnect the brake fluid lines and unscrew the mounting nuts with your ratchet and socket. • Once you’ve removed the master cylinder, tip it over your drain pan to allow any remaining fluid to drain. • Keep in mind that brake fluid spills will damage painted surfaces, so if this happens, flush it with water immediately. • If your vehicle has antilock brakes, you’ll also want to disconnect the brake line from the hydraulic control unit, or HCU, and remove this component so it’s out of the way. • Inspect the seal at the end of the master cylinder… there should be no signs of brake fluid seepage. • If you see fluid, there is a leak. • If this is not corrected, the new booster will be damaged by allowing brake fluid inside the vacuum chamber and deteriorating the vacuum diaphragm. • So, if the master cylinder seal does show signs of seepage, the master cylinder needs to be replaced. • With the master cylinder out of the way, you can turn your attention to the brake booster. • Inside the vehicle, tilt your steering wheel up and remove the knee blocker to give you easier access. • Your brake pedal attaches to a push rod that leads directly to the booster. • Detach the retaining clip that connects the two components. • Watch the video for full instructions on this job

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