How to set up a dirted tank Detailed Guide and Tips

>> YOUR LINK HERE: ___ http://youtube.com/watch?v=qH1ELRujI0Q

This is an updated and detailed guide on how to set up a dirted tank. • What are dirted tanks? • Dirted tanks are planted tanks in which terrestrial soil is used as a substrate. They have been around for a while but they have become popular after D. Walstad's book Ecology of the Planted Aquarium - A practical manual and scientific treatise for the home aquarist , published in 1999. There has also been an increase in their popularity after a well respected member Foo the Flowerhorn had begun the craze regarding No filter, No Co2, No Ferts . • So, I can only thank both of them for inspiring me and creating more content on this specific matter. • -Why a dirted tank over a typical tank or a high tech tank? • Well, it's really up to taste and budget. Dirted tanks are the cheapest and provide a great plant growth without having to monitor closely all nutrients. They are low maintenance and require nothing but a few water and plant trimming. There are two cons with this setup on the top of my head. A) Allelopathy, which means some plants will always kill of the other plants and B) because of the previously stated factors they are not optimal for aquascaping. Also, they usually have a green - yello tinge which is something that I really love, but some others hate. • After watching this detailed guide, you will feel more confident in setting up your own dirted tank and possibly avoid some serious mistakes • Checkpoints: • • #1. Get all of your stuff ready before you start setting up. • Whether it’s the hardscape or the essentials such as dirt ang gravel, you better make a list and be prepared that you have everything covered. There is nothing more frustrating than having to redo your tank or dealing with a mud bath. • • #2. Choosing the correct soil. • Depending on where you live and how easily you can get lost in translation, you need a soil which is not very nutritious. To be more specific, any organic soil will do. Simple soils are the best. You do not want any added fertilizers or a very high content on organic matter such as compost or peat moss because a very acidic substrate will increase metals in the water column. • #3 Getting the right substrate cap • The substrate cap should be an inert material. You can use gravel or sand, depending on your likings. However, keep in mind if you use coarse gravel with a diameter larger than 4 mm you might face problems keeping mud out of the water column. Also, try using coarse gravel instead of polished. Coarse gravel has high surface to volume ratio, meaning more bacteria can colonize when compared to polished or smooth gravel. • #4 Adding water • No matter what type of water you may use, I suggest you add some metal binding conditioner such as prime. This will prevent the toxic metal spikes which can cause severe damage to your plants. • #5 Add your hardscape and plants. • Now this is where you can’t go really wrong. Just be gentle so you do now disturb the substrate, otherwise you will end up with a mud bath. Put tall plants in the back of the aquarium and low plants in the front zones. That’s pretty much it. • #6 Filter, heater, thermometer. • If you are planning on adding a filter, I think it’s time for you to add it. Along with the filter add the thermostat and the thermometer. A hang on back filter will do the job. • 7 Let there be light. • Now, light is as important as water. It’s how plants get their energy and your whole ecosystem is based on plants. I cannot stress more on the importance of light. Now, most aquarium starting kits come with a light which is not bright enough to sustain plant life. You will need 30-50 lumens per liter. • #8 Water changes – the first hard days. • Dirted tanks are usually low maintenance and most of the times they run on their own. However, during the first few days keep in mind that the water column is a mess. Metals, ammonia, nitrites and pH fluctuation are some of the things that might kill anything alive in the tank. • #9 patience may not be on the list.. but you’ll need it. • Before adding the fish, you can perform some water tests. Ammonia and nitrites should be undetectable, whereas nitrates should be kept around 10-20 ppm. This usually takes 3-8 weeks depending on the substrate, the water changes and the number of plants added in the aquarium. • #10 What to expect • For the first few months some algal growth is normal. Some stunted plant growth is expected. And finally, bacterial blooms are completely normal. Just keep doing your water changes when ammonia exceeds the limits and when ammonia and nitrites are zero, your tank is safe to house fish and other invertebrates! • Chapters: • 00:00 Intro • 00:44 Making a list • 02:00 Choosing soil • 03:53 Making the cap • 05:40 Treating and adding water • 06:38 Setting the scape • 07:21 Filter-Heater-Thermometer • 07:57 Light • 09:00 Water Changes • 10:50 Fishless start • 11:54 Algae outbreaks and bacterial blooms • 12:22 Outro - Thanks for sticking so far • • Music: Falling Snow - Aakash Gandhi

#############################

New on site